Zodiac Professional 200 Meters (Ref. 206.19.34) – The Silver Dot Diver

Look between four and five o’clock on this black dial and you will find a small silver dot. It is easy to miss, but it tells you which family of 1990s Zodiac divers this watch belongs to.

What it is

This is a Zodiac Professional 200 Meters, reference 206.19.34. The dial reads “Zodiac”, “Automatic”, “professional”, “200 Meters” and “T Swiss Made T”. The caseback is engraved “Waterresistant 200 meters tested”, “Stainless steel”, “Swiss made”, “Swiss since 1882” and the reference number.

• Reference: 206.19.34 (engraved on the caseback)
• Winding: automatic (dial)
• Water resistance: 200 m as engraved on the caseback (see the condition notes below)
• Case and bracelet: stainless steel (caseback engraving)
• Case width: about 37.1 mm without the crown (measured)
• Lug to lug: about 45.8 mm (measured)
• Thickness: about 10.6 mm (measured)
• Bracelet width: about 20.1 mm at the case, 16.1 mm at the clasp (measured)
• Date: window at 3 o’clock
• Movement: Swiss automatic. An owner of the same reference on the VintageZodiacs forum reports an ETA automatic movement; we did not open the caseback of this one to check.

What the silver dot means

Zodiac came back in 1990 under Willy Gad Monnier, a former Heuer finance director and one-time TAG Heuer CEO. According to Worn & Wound, he sorted the new range by a coloured dot placed on the dial between four and five. Collectors now call these the “Point” or “Dot” watches. Red marked the sports watches, gold the more elegant ones, and silver, the colour on this watch, the line named “Professional Divers Watches”.

The same article explains that these watches followed TAG Heuer’s designs very closely and were priced a little below them. The era did not last long. The company went bankrupt again about seven years after its return, and the new owner, Genender, dropped the line in 1998.

What about this reference? There is a thread on the VintageZodiacs forum about a silver dot diver with the same number, 206.19.34. A long-time collector there dates it to the early 1990s from the Zodiac catalogues, and another member says it appears in many 1990s catalogues. We have not seen those catalogues ourselves. Another member in that thread had a similar watch with no dot at all, so it is worth looking closely if you are hunting for one.

Three things we like about it

1. The clean black dial

A triangle marks 12 o’clock, round markers sit at 6 and 9, and the other hours are pointed shapes, each one raised and framed in grey around a cream luminous fill. The hour and minute hands are simple straight batons, and the thin seconds hand carries a small round luminous disc near its tip. With so little printed on it, the dial is very easy to read.

2. A smaller, slimmer size

At about 37 mm wide and about 10.6 mm thick, it is a compact diver by today’s standards. The steel case widens at 3 o’clock into shoulders around the knurled crown. The black bezel has numerals every 10 minutes, with a luminous dot in the triangle at zero, and its edge is scalloped so that it is easy to grip.

3. The caseback and the signed clasp

Turn it over and you find the Zodiac emblem raised inside an octagon, with the reference number and “Swiss since 1882” beside it. There are notches around the edge for a caseback wrench. The steel bracelet closes with a folding clasp that carries the Zodiac name and emblem.

Wearing it

Picture an ordinary Saturday. You turn the bezel to time the parking meter or the coffee on the stove, and the watch slips under a shirt cuff without any fuss when the day moves on.

Its condition when we sold it

In our listing we described the watch as Mint, looking almost unused. These are the points we noted:

• The exterior showed minimal signs of use.
• The automatic winding worked properly. Power reserve and water resistance were not guaranteed.
• It came on its genuine bracelet, with only a few very light scuffs from storage and handling. No extra links were included.
• It came with an instruction manual, printed in Japanese.

About Zodiac

That Japanese manual is a nice touch, because Zodiac’s ties to Japan go back a long way. Zodiac’s company history says the firm became an exporter, to Japan in particular, a market with a reputation for being difficult, and that it dealt with Hattori, the business behind Seiko.

azuleterno is an independent shop. We are not affiliated with or endorsed by Zodiac.

This one has found its new owner

This Professional left Japan in March 2026 for its new owner in the United States. If you are looking for a similar Zodiac, or another diver from the same era, send me a DM on Instagram and tell me what you are after.
Thank you very much for reading.